Springtime is possibly the time of year best suited to exploration - the improved weather tempts us to get out and shake off the cobwebs we've accumulated over the winter. Weekends are seductive, calling us to get out of the apartment and to do something - any activity denied us during the bleak, gray, cold winter that is only now receding into memory.
Months of relative winter isolation and inactivity give birth to what is called cabin fever: the urge to escape confinement, seek out the sun and gently wash the chill from bones too long insulted by icy streets and the freezing wind that whips off the Dnipro.
While Kyiv is a delightful place during the spring and summer months and offers plenty of opportunities for outdoor exploration, few capital cities really reflect the countries they represent. As former President Leonid Kuchma wrote, "Ukraine is Not Russia." Likewise, Kyiv is not Ukraine. It is certainly possible to say that you've been "to Ukraine" upon having spent time in Kyiv, but it would be inaccurate to say that you had "seen Ukraine." That statement requires that you spend time away from the country's political, business and cultural center, and venture outward.
Fortunately, exploring the country has never been easier. Ukraine has a well-developed and reliable passenger rail system, and (though fares are reportedly going to be raised by about 50 percent this month) $12 to $40 for an overnight sleeper berth is still quite reasonable. On several routes, rail beds have been upgraded to give a smoother ride, and new equipment has been added to provide fast service between Kyiv and Kharkiv and Dnipropetrovsk.
The biggest disadvantage to taking a trip on Ukraine's railway is also possibly one of the biggest advantages: Because almost every train is an overnight train, you sleep for most of the trip, waking up at your destination, with a full day of exploration ahead of you. But that's a disadvantage for those who want to see the countryside roll by their compartment window. At night, there's just not much to see. A few trains, like the daily run between Moscow and Chisinau, Moldova, do leave in daytime, and offer interesting views of the countryside in Western Ukraine. Plan on booking any rail ticket at least 10 days early, as Friday departures and Sunday returns sell out fast.
For drivers who yearn for the freedom of the open road, many of the nation's most-traveled highways have seen improvement as well. There are plenty of service stations along major routes, and even a few motels, reminiscent of 1950s America, have cropped up. Highways are no longer the sole province of truckers and the ruling class, as booming auto sales have put personal transportation within the reach of many Ukrainians. Just be sure to keep a small stash of 10 hryvnia banknotes handy for the traffic police. Bribery? Think of the highway as a toll road, and the omnipresent DAI officers as toll collectors. Enjoy the ride.
After a week at work, why not take a weekend trip outside Kyiv? The Black Sea's fresh, salty air can revitalize, and Odessa is just a few hours drive away. The Sofiyivka Gardens at Uman are even closer. To the east, Kharkiv, once capital of Soviet Ukraine, is an easy weekend trip. Villages, trading centers, rivers, and mountains - Ukraine has a remarkable diversity that has to be experienced to be believed.
Hotels still lag behind European standards in most parts of the country, and in smaller towns they may be downright rudimentary. But ask around - there are surprises to be found as well - remodeled or newly build hotels with Western style features do exist, but may not be well known.
What explorer worthy of the title couldn't rough it for a couple days? Discovery is all about finding the hidden jewels, the curiosities, and the rustic that make Ukraine - or anywhere else - more than just a spot on the map.
A spring and summer full of weekends lay ahead. Get out there on the open road, or buy a train ticket, and taste the real Ukraine that is beyond Kyiv's city limits.
UMAN
About two hours from Kyiv on the Kyiv-Odessa highway is the town of Uman and the sprawling Sofiyivsky national botanical park. In 1667, Uman was part of Poland, and in 1796 Count Potocki had the gardens constructed in honor of his wife, Sofiya. Lakes, waterfalls and streams dot the park, which hosts a huge variety of plant life and flocks of swans. Paths crisscross 150 hectares and provide easy access to notable sights including the Island of Love, the Lion's Grotto, the Grotto of Venus and Hippocreme's Well. The park was restored between 1966 and 1972. The area's only drawback is that there are a paucity of dining options in the park itself (except a few hot dog stands outside the gates) and the restrooms are well-concealed. The best-kept secret: On the hill overlooking the park is a small hotel - just two or three rooms. The hotel's restaurant is often reserved for parties, but the staff is helpful and the room rates are very low. Check in, hit the sauna and stay the night. Take breakfast fruit and your walking shoes with you.
POLTAVA
The fast train to Kharkiv stops in Poltava, 335 kilometers from Kyiv, and the city is a destination itself for history buffs and others. The city of about 400,000 has been around since, well, forever, with evidence that the area was inhabited in the Paleolithic era. Evidence of Scythian and ancient Slavic cultures have also been unearthed.
Poltava is perhaps best known for the battle that was fought there in the summer of 1709, when Hetman Ivan Mazepa and Sweden's King Charles XII faced off against the troops of Tsar Peter I of Russia - and lost. Mazepa never lived that defeat down, in Russia history books, anyway, and he is almost an afterthought in an excellent small museum dedicated to the battle located just outside town.
Today, Poltava shows signs of renewal everywhere. Buildings are largely painted and appear well-cared for and the streets are in good condition. The city's center is dominated by a sprawling tree-lined mall that invites pedestrians. Recently, a miniature version of Kyiv's Globus shopping center was built (underground, of course). One of the highlights is the city's Ethnographic Museum at 2 Lenin Square. The history of the area is very well presented here - it's worth evading the sun for an hour or two to take it in.
Halych
See , Halych formerly the capital of Galicia. No not Spain, but Ukraine. About 12,000 population. In Western Ukraine, approximately 650 kilometers from Kyiv. A beautiful, quaint, colorful little town. The historic home of King Danylo. Prince Danylo was ruler of Galicia and Volhynia in the 13th century. His statue, astride his horse, dominates the city's center. Another article in this issue of the UO tells more of Halych and the history of Galicia. It's a worthwhile trip. A day, or even two, worthwhile. The 'best' hotel however, though modern, has only one shower and bath for the 6 rooms. The Dniester River flows nearby. It's wide at that point and a pedestrian bridge connects the town. Almost cliffs above attract. Probably King Danylo saw advantage. Still he surrendered to the Mongols. But he did for a time occupy Kyiv, and even defeated the princes of Chernihiv. Only 24 kilometers from Ivano-Frankivsk (Halych is north); a sleeper accommodation on the Kyiv train is a delight. The train only stops two minutes. Getting off, not a problem. Getting on, just grab a wagon, then locate your seat with the help of the sometimes nice, but not always, ’provodnitza“. Get there soon. There is history. One day it will be Gatlinburg and Dollywood will be near. For those who don't know...Galicia was never Russia, and its Ukrainian, Kievan-Rus roots are impeccable.
|
