As an American who has been making frequent trips to Ukraine - usually for several weeks three or four times per year - over the last 16 years, I have always been amazed by two things, the obvious tourist attractions and how little care seems to be taken of some of these tourist crown jewels. During my most recent visit, I was amazed by the condition of one of Kyiv's tourist centerpieces, the Golden Gate that has fallen into a state of filthiness that is repelling and a state of repair that is downright dangerous.
All who visit the Golden Gate immediately understand that little or nothing has been done in the way of upkeep and repair in many years. From observation I can say that those most appalled by the conditions were the Germans and other European visitors who are used to seeing their national treasures well taken care of.
Restored toward the end of the Soviet period, the Golden Gate Museum has been a must see attraction for visitors and locals alike. However, the facility now creates an aura of bewilderment as tourists try to comprehend the degree of deterioration to which the city's premier monument has been reduced.
In observing the steady stream of curious visitors, it was impossible to miss the astonished looks on their faces as they tried to negotiate the dangerous and deteriorating wood walkway, which now has the potential of leaving a visitor to tumble to the concrete several meters below. Each step a visitor takes is fraught with danger as they view the gate's ancient ruins they came to see. All of this is in stark contrast to many surrounding nice cafes and restaurants, one of which is located directly in the public park with the famous Gate Fountain as its centerpiece.
The recreated Golden Gate is arguably not the most important historical structure in the city. It is designed to show the Gate and fortress walls as they evolved from a wood and dirt earthwork, to the restored stone city walls. The Gate itself is designed to be architecturally accurate. And inside the rampart pulley entrance, visible to visitors, are the last true elements of the original old city gateway.
A few years ago the city fathers constructed a new monument to Yaroslav the Wise next to the Golden Gate. This was an excellent idea that now stands more poignant in contrast to the deteriorating original Gate monument. This wonderful venue once used for music concerts and other events in summer now has become a public eyesore and dangerous place to boot.
Instead of looking through the Gate entrance to see the authentic ruins, tourists now can look inside and see parts of the Gate that have fallen from the structure, as well as a great collection of beer, wine, and champagne bottles. In fact, the Golden Gate now seems to be one of the biggest repositories of glass and can trash in the entire city. Every nook and cranny of the walls, walkways, and the Gate's interior are filled with trash left by visitors with apparently no one in charge of care and maintenance.
In talking to some of the local citizenry you get the usual responses that conditions are bad but could be worse.
Tanya Dikovskaya, a local English teacher, remarked, "The city has many serious priorities, not just taking care of the Golden Gate." "There are many other things to do and money is in short supply," she added.
Another local, Sasha Tovkus, postulated that the restoration of the Golden gate was on the city's agenda of "to do" items. He said, "First of all it is not a true historical landmark like Sofievska, or some others. It is somewhat artificial."
Whatever your feelings are on the authenticity of the monument, it is clear that it remains an important reminder of the city's ancient past, and that it continues to be a starting point for visitors from all over the world who come to Ukraine.
It would seem that this proud city could find the time and energy to add a light to the Golden Gate dome and restore the luster this monument exuded a few short years ago.
It is unconscionable to let this centerpiece of Kyiv and Ukraine's past simply fall to ruin in a pile of rotting woodwork, trash and broken glass.
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